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Find jewelry making tools: pliers, cutters, jewelers saws, bench blocks, punches, drills (manual and power), soldering supplies, riveting tools, jewelry resin, cleaners, magnifiers, ring and bracelet tools...
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  • Tip: If you ever get a ring (or sizer) stuck on your finger, Windex does an excellent job helping the ring slide off. And if you're at a fair, show, or jewelry store, odds are that there is some Windex (or other spray cleanser) nearby, for keeping glass cases and mirrors sparkling!See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.

    Ring Sizers, Plastic (Each)

    $1.99
    Tip: If you ever get a ring (or sizer) stuck on your finger, Windex does an excellent job helping the ring slide off. And if you're at a fair, show, or jewelry store, odds are that there is some Windex (or other spray cleanser) nearby, for keeping glass...
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  • See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.Questions? E-mail us for friendly, expert help!

    Gray Plastic Clipcard, Blank, 1.5x2" (100 Pieces)

    $5.95
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  • See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Questions? E-mail us for friendly, expert help! See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Questions? E-mail us for friendly, expert help!

    Penny Brite Copper Gel (Each)

    $5.16
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  • Polymer Clay Basics Polymer clays are man made modeling materials that, once heat cured, become permanent and will not return to their original state. All are composed of the same basic components: plasticizers, resins, fillers and colorants. Before using polymer clay it must be conditioned... kneading by hand until the clay is soft and pliable or fold and roll through a pasta machine. Inadequate conditioning will result in weakened finished items and weakened piece to piece adhesion. Condition light colors first, then move to darker colors. Polymer clay pieces can be cured in a standard oven (convection) or toaster oven. Do not microwave polymer clay. If you don't have a dedicated oven, place items in an aluminum pan, then cover tightly with foil to prevent residue build up in your oven. Cure pieces in a well-ventilated area. Check oven accuracy with a thermometer and use a timer to avoid exceeding curing time. The recommended curing temperature is 300° F (150° C). Kato Polyclay™ can be cured at 275° F (135° C) with good results and has been approved to cure at 350° F by our toxicologist, however caution should be taken when curing at that temperature, time should be limited to 10 minutes as you will run the risk of discoloration. You should never exceed 365° F. Materials that will withstand clay curing temperatures, such as glass, paper mache, wood, metal and ceramic items may be covered with clay and baked in the oven. Items may be nested in polyester batting to avoid flat, shiny spots. Finished pieces may be painted or glazed after curing. Water-based paints and glazes are recommended. Cured clay may also be wet sanded (automotive sandpaper - 400 and 600 grit, in water) and then buffed to a high-gloss sheen. Working Properties of Kato PolyClay™ 1. Conditioning - Kato Polyclay™ is easy to condition, with no crumbling. I slice the blocks into 1/8" thick pieces. Roll through the pasta machine at the thickest setting. Finish by folding and rolling. 2. Handling - with continuous kneading and working, Kato Polyclay™ does not become sticky and, therefore, maintains its ease of workability. 3. Strength - Kato Polyclay™ was deemed as strong or stronger than other clays the testers used, - most feeling it was stronger. Not one single respondent found it to be less strong. Additionally, every color shares the same strength. 4. Color stability - From uncured to cured state, no Kato Polyclay™ color shifts more than 1/2 shade, with the majority remaining unchanged from uncured to cured state. It is virtually "true- color". 5. Consistency - Colors share the same consistency and softness. For example, you won't find white very hard and green very soft. Even consistency promotes even cane reduction, which results in less distorted imagery and less waste at cane ends. 6. Color Mixing - Rather than taking an academic approach (this requires that the user have a rather extensive knowledge of color mixing) we have opted for a more user friendly and intuitive method. The Spectral Colors form the basis for the creation of all colors. If they were placed on the color wheel, you would find them very evenly spaced. This approach makes color mixing simple for even the most inexperienced user. 7. Colors - Colors have been formulated for maximum purity and brilliance. 8. Finish - Once cured, Kato Polyclay™ exhibits a satin sheen. 9. Density - As part of the manufacturing process, Kato Polyclay™ is vacuum extruded (we are the only company utilizing this state of the art process). In essence, air from the clay is removed, making the clay denser and eliminating the need for continuous folding and rolling to remove air pockets from the clay. 10. Warm repositioning - Kato Polyclay™ is not as fragile as other brands when warm. Kato Polyclay™ allows for a measure of repositioning of elements when warm - the clay maintains its new position without breaking. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.

    Kato Polyclay, 2oz, Metallic - Pearl (Each)

    $2.11
    Polymer Clay Basics Polymer clays are man made modeling materials that, once heat cured, become permanent and will not return to their original state. All are composed of the same basic components: plasticizers, resins, fillers and colorants. ...
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  • Magic-Glos™ Crystal clear, but will darken/yellow if baked over 125°F. Waterproof. Scratch resistant but not scratch proof. Use to seal cured polymer clay, image transfers, foils, mosaics and more. Will magnify the patterns underneath. Apply multiple layers to make faux dichro effects and domed cabochons. Can be mixed with inclusions such as glitter and dried flowers. Photographic paper, regular paper and fabric should be sealed to create a waterproof barrier before applying Magic-Glos™. (Use clear packing tape, transparent shelf liner, laminating film or a coating of liquid polymer clay.) Papers and fabrics coated with water-soluble sealers (decoupage fluid, Mod Podge®, etc.) should not be coated with Magic-Glos™. Cures with direct sunlight (outdoors) or a UV lamp. Typical cure time is 5-15 minutes depending on size of cure area and thickness of layer. Store in a cool, dry place. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Magic-Glos™ Crystal clear, but will darken/yellow if baked over 125°F. Waterproof. Scratch resistant but not scratch proof. Use to seal cured polymer clay, image transfers, foils, mosaics and more. Will magnify the patterns underneath. Apply multiple layers to make faux dichro effects and domed cabochons. Can be mixed with inclusions such as glitter and dried flowers. Photographic paper, regular paper and fabric should be sealed to create a waterproof barrier before applying Magic-Glos™. (Use clear packing tape, transparent shelf liner, laminating film or a coating of liquid polymer clay.) Papers and fabrics coated with water-soluble sealers (decoupage fluid, Mod Podge®, etc.) should not be coated with Magic-Glos™. Cures with direct sunlight (outdoors) or a UV lamp. Typical cure time is 5-15 minutes depending on size of cure area and thickness of layer. Store in a cool, dry place. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.

    Magic-Glos, UV Resin, 1oz (Each)

    Lisa Pavelka

    $8.78
    Magic-Glos™ Crystal clear, but will darken/yellow if baked over 125°F. Waterproof. Scratch resistant but not scratch proof. Use to seal cured polymer clay, image transfers, foils, mosaics and more. Will magnify the patterns underneath. Apply multiple...
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  • To avoid cross-contamination (it's just as important with metals, as it is for foods), keep your polishing pads used for aluminum or nickel silver separate from your polishing pads used with sterling, copper, brass, karat gold, etc. -- If you use the same polishing pad for multiple metals, you may bring brass or copper color into your aluminum or sterling, or you may contaminate your sterling or karat gold with traces of nickel or aluminum, making them hazardous to solder or use with oxidization chemicals. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.

    EURO TOOL Polishing Pads, Ultra, 2x2" (pack)

    EURO TOOL

    $8.07
    To avoid cross-contamination (it's just as important with metals, as it is for foods), keep your polishing pads used for aluminum or nickel silver separate from your polishing pads used with sterling, copper, brass, karat gold, etc. -- If you use the...
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  • See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.Questions? E-mail us for friendly, expert help!

    Clear Plastic Clipcard, Blank, 1" (gross)

    $4.92
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  • See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Questions? E-mail us for friendly, expert help!

    Beadalon Jewelry Pliers, Memory Wire Bending, 1.5 and 3mm (Each)

    Beadalon
    $9.55
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  • Polymer Clay Basics Polymer clays are man made modeling materials that, once heat cured, become permanent and will not return to their original state. All are composed of the same basic components: plasticizers, resins, fillers and colorants. Before using polymer clay it must be conditioned... kneading by hand until the clay is soft and pliable or fold and roll through a pasta machine. Inadequate conditioning will result in weakened finished items and weakened piece to piece adhesion. Condition light colors first, then move to darker colors. Polymer clay pieces can be cured in a standard oven (convection) or toaster oven. Do not microwave polymer clay. If you don't have a dedicated oven, place items in an aluminum pan, then cover tightly with foil to prevent residue build up in your oven. Cure pieces in a well-ventilated area. Check oven accuracy with a thermometer and use a timer to avoid exceeding curing time. The recommended curing temperature is 300° F (150° C). Kato Polyclay™ can be cured at 275° F (135° C) with good results and has been approved to cure at 350° F by our toxicologist, however caution should be taken when curing at that temperature, time should be limited to 10 minutes as you will run the risk of discoloration. You should never exceed 365° F. Materials that will withstand clay curing temperatures, such as glass, paper mache, wood, metal and ceramic items may be covered with clay and baked in the oven. Items may be nested in polyester batting to avoid flat, shiny spots. Finished pieces may be painted or glazed after curing. Water-based paints and glazes are recommended. Cured clay may also be wet sanded (automotive sandpaper - 400 and 600 grit, in water) and then buffed to a high-gloss sheen. Working Properties of Kato PolyClay™ 1. Conditioning - Kato Polyclay™ is easy to condition, with no crumbling. I slice the blocks into 1/8" thick pieces. Roll through the pasta machine at the thickest setting. Finish by folding and rolling. 2. Handling - with continuous kneading and working, Kato Polyclay™ does not become sticky and, therefore, maintains its ease of workability. 3. Strength - Kato Polyclay™ was deemed as strong or stronger than other clays the testers used, - most feeling it was stronger. Not one single respondent found it to be less strong. Additionally, every color shares the same strength. 4. Color stability - From uncured to cured state, no Kato Polyclay™ color shifts more than 1/2 shade, with the majority remaining unchanged from uncured to cured state. It is virtually "true- color". 5. Consistency - Colors share the same consistency and softness. For example, you won't find white very hard and green very soft. Even consistency promotes even cane reduction, which results in less distorted imagery and less waste at cane ends. 6. Color Mixing - Rather than taking an academic approach (this requires that the user have a rather extensive knowledge of color mixing) we have opted for a more user friendly and intuitive method. The Spectral Colors form the basis for the creation of all colors. If they were placed on the color wheel, you would find them very evenly spaced. This approach makes color mixing simple for even the most inexperienced user. 7. Colors - Colors have been formulated for maximum purity and brilliance. 8. Finish - Once cured, Kato Polyclay™ exhibits a satin sheen. 9. Density - As part of the manufacturing process, Kato Polyclay™ is vacuum extruded (we are the only company utilizing this state of the art process). In essence, air from the clay is removed, making the clay denser and eliminating the need for continuous folding and rolling to remove air pockets from the clay. 10. Warm repositioning - Kato Polyclay™ is not as fragile as other brands when warm. Kato Polyclay™ allows for a measure of repositioning of elements when warm - the clay maintains its new position without breaking. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.

    Kato Polyclay, 2oz - Turquoise (Each)

    $1.98
    Polymer Clay Basics Polymer clays are man made modeling materials that, once heat cured, become permanent and will not return to their original state. All are composed of the same basic components: plasticizers, resins, fillers and colorants. ...
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  • Polymer Clay Basics Polymer clays are man made modeling materials that, once heat cured, become permanent and will not return to their original state. All are composed of the same basic components: plasticizers, resins, fillers and colorants. Before using polymer clay it must be conditioned... kneading by hand until the clay is soft and pliable or fold and roll through a pasta machine. Inadequate conditioning will result in weakened finished items and weakened piece to piece adhesion. Condition light colors first, then move to darker colors. Polymer clay pieces can be cured in a standard oven (convection) or toaster oven. Do not microwave polymer clay. If you don't have a dedicated oven, place items in an aluminum pan, then cover tightly with foil to prevent residue build up in your oven. Cure pieces in a well-ventilated area. Check oven accuracy with a thermometer and use a timer to avoid exceeding curing time. The recommended curing temperature is 300° F (150° C). Kato Polyclay™ can be cured at 275° F (135° C) with good results and has been approved to cure at 350° F by our toxicologist, however caution should be taken when curing at that temperature, time should be limited to 10 minutes as you will run the risk of discoloration. You should never exceed 365° F. Materials that will withstand clay curing temperatures, such as glass, paper mache, wood, metal and ceramic items may be covered with clay and baked in the oven. Items may be nested in polyester batting to avoid flat, shiny spots. Finished pieces may be painted or glazed after curing. Water-based paints and glazes are recommended. Cured clay may also be wet sanded (automotive sandpaper - 400 and 600 grit, in water) and then buffed to a high-gloss sheen. Working Properties of Kato PolyClay™ 1. Conditioning - Kato Polyclay™ is easy to condition, with no crumbling. I slice the blocks into 1/8" thick pieces. Roll through the pasta machine at the thickest setting. Finish by folding and rolling. 2. Handling - with continuous kneading and working, Kato Polyclay™ does not become sticky and, therefore, maintains its ease of workability. 3. Strength - Kato Polyclay™ was deemed as strong or stronger than other clays the testers used, - most feeling it was stronger. Not one single respondent found it to be less strong. Additionally, every color shares the same strength. 4. Color stability - From uncured to cured state, no Kato Polyclay™ color shifts more than 1/2 shade, with the majority remaining unchanged from uncured to cured state. It is virtually "true- color". 5. Consistency - Colors share the same consistency and softness. For example, you won't find white very hard and green very soft. Even consistency promotes even cane reduction, which results in less distorted imagery and less waste at cane ends. 6. Color Mixing - Rather than taking an academic approach (this requires that the user have a rather extensive knowledge of color mixing) we have opted for a more user friendly and intuitive method. The Spectral Colors form the basis for the creation of all colors. If they were placed on the color wheel, you would find them very evenly spaced. This approach makes color mixing simple for even the most inexperienced user. 7. Colors - Colors have been formulated for maximum purity and brilliance. 8. Finish - Once cured, Kato Polyclay™ exhibits a satin sheen. 9. Density - As part of the manufacturing process, Kato Polyclay™ is vacuum extruded (we are the only company utilizing this state of the art process). In essence, air from the clay is removed, making the clay denser and eliminating the need for continuous folding and rolling to remove air pockets from the clay. 10. Warm repositioning - Kato Polyclay™ is not as fragile as other brands when warm. Kato Polyclay™ allows for a measure of repositioning of elements when warm - the clay maintains its new position without breaking. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.

    Kato Polyclay, 2oz, Metallic - Gold (Each)

    $1.98
    Polymer Clay Basics Polymer clays are man made modeling materials that, once heat cured, become permanent and will not return to their original state. All are composed of the same basic components: plasticizers, resins, fillers and colorants. ...
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  • See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Visit our blog or watch the video below,for tips on using The Beadsmith® 1-Step Looper.

    The BeadSmith Jewelry Pliers, 1-Step BIG Looper, 3mm (Each)

    The Beadsmith

    $30.15
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  • After removing firescale or other rough spots with this medium-grit abrasive buff, you may want to follow it with a muslin buffing wheel for a higher polish. Entanglement Warning: Keep hair, loose clothing, dangling jewelry, and beards away from the rotating parts of motorized polishing tools! If you find yourself doing a lot of grinding, buffing, polishing, soldering, pickling, etc., consider adding a ventilation system to pull dust, fumes and small particles away from you. Many pre-made systems exist for workshops, or you can create your own from flexible ductwork intakes directly over your work areas, and exhaust fan(s) that fit your workspace and needs. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. After removing firescale or other rough spots with this medium-grit abrasive buff, you may want to follow it with a muslin buffing wheel for a higher polish. Entanglement Warning: Keep hair, loose clothing, dangling jewelry, and beards away from the rotating parts of motorized polishing tools! If you find yourself doing a lot of grinding, buffing, polishing, soldering, pickling, etc., consider adding a ventilation system to pull dust, fumes and small particles away from you. Many pre-made systems exist for workshops, or you can create your own from flexible ductwork intakes directly over your work areas, and exhaust fan(s) that fit your workspace and needs. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.

    Buffing Wheel, Medium Abrasive, 2-7/8 x 3/4" (pair)

    EURO TOOL

    $8.46
    After removing firescale or other rough spots with this medium-grit abrasive buff, you may want to follow it with a muslin buffing wheel for a higher polish. Entanglement Warning: Keep hair, loose clothing, dangling jewelry, and beards away from the...
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  • See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Visit our blog or watch the video below,for tips on using The Beadsmith® 1-Step Looper.

    The BeadSmith Jewelry Pliers, 1-Step Looper, 2.25mm (Each)

    The Beadsmith
    $28.25
    See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Visit our blog or watch the video below,for tips on using The Beadsmith® 1-Step Looper.
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  • Which Glue is Best? Check out all the options, plus tips for successful glue bonds, on our main Adhesives and Jewelry Glues page. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.

    Adhesive, Crafter's Pick, The Ultimate (Each)

    $3.00
    Which Glue is Best? Check out all the options, plus tips for successful glue bonds, on our main Adhesives and Jewelry Glues page. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this...
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  • See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.Questions? E-mail us for friendly, expert help!

    Black Plastic Clipcard, Blank, 1.5x2" (100 Pieces)

    $5.60
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  • Which Glue is Best? Check out all the options, plus tips for successful glue bonds, on our main Adhesives and Jewelry Glues page. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.

    EURO TOOL Adhesive, Super New Glue (Each)

    EURO TOOL
    $2.29
    Which Glue is Best? Check out all the options, plus tips for successful glue bonds, on our main Adhesives and Jewelry Glues page. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this...
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    EURO TOOL Tripod with Mesh Screen, 9" (Each)

    EURO TOOL

    $8.20
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  • See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Visit our blog or watch the video below,for tips on using The Beadsmith® 1-Step Looper. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Visit our blog or watch the video below,for tips on using The Beadsmith® 1-Step Looper.

    The BeadSmith Jewelry Pliers, Original 1-Step Looper, 1.5mm (Each)

    The Beadsmith

    $28.25
    See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Visit our blog or watch the video below,for tips on using The Beadsmith® 1-Step Looper.
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    TierraCast Rivet Setter for 4mm Leather Rivets (Each)

    TierraCast
    $5.49
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    TierraCast Rivet Setter for 6mm Leather Rivets (Each)

    TierraCast
    $5.49
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    Coconut Carbon, 2lbs. (Each)

    $5.10
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  • For stamps that aren't pre-labeled (or the label wears off with use), place a dot with Wite-Out® or colorful fingernail polish to indicate the bottom of each letter (or symbol) to help keep your letters directionally correct when stamping. For the stamps that are pre-marked with the letter or symbol, marking should generally face toward the user when stamping. If you have a set that's different, you may want to put a dot facing you, to keep all your stamps consistent. For more information on metal stamping take a look at our Metal Stamping 101 page or our free downloadable metal stamping PDF. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.

    ImpressArt Metal Stamp, Floral Swirl (Each)

    ImpressArt
    $8.17
    For stamps that aren't pre-labeled (or the label wears off with use), place a dot with Wite-Out® or colorful fingernail polish to indicate the bottom of each letter (or symbol) to help keep your letters directionally correct when stamping. For the...
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  • Which Glue is Best? For the most durable bond, we almost always recommend epoxies rather than other types of glue, but it depends on a few factors... Check out the options, plus tips for successful glue bonds, on our Adhesives and Jewelry Glues page. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Which Glue is Best? For the most durable bond, we almost always recommend epoxies rather than other types of glue, but it depends on a few factors... Check out the options, plus tips for successful glue bonds, on our Adhesives and Jewelry Glues page. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.

    Magnet, Round, 18mm (35 Pieces)

    $9.67
    Which Glue is Best? For the most durable bond, we almost always recommend epoxies rather than other types of glue, but it depends on a few factors... Check out the options, plus tips for successful glue bonds, on our Adhesives and Jewelry Glues page. See...
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    Organza Drawstring Bag, 3x4" - White (10 Pieces)

    $2.43
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    Pointed Tweezer "3rd Hand" (Each)

    EURO TOOL
    $9.85
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  • Enameling Tips:Enamel is durable, but not totally infallible. Handle finished pieces with care.Do all metal shaping, stamping, punching, etc. before adding enamels.Thoroughly clean your metal before enameling. Penny Brite works great!Before sifting enamel onto the piece, spray on a light coat of Klyr-Fire to help enamel stay in place with an even coating.To paint instead of sift, mix with Klyr Fire or approximately 40% water (to get desired consistency) and paint with a small sable paintbrush. You may want to fire a layer of Opaque White Undercoat first.Sift or paint enamel in desired pattern, carefully transfer to your firing station, and fire!If torch firing, watch closely: when the enamel begins to melt, you'll see a glossy "orange peel" stage where the enamel beads up before slumping to a smooth enameled sheen. Fire a bit more, but don't overheat - some colors will scorch.Allow to slowly cool. A warmed pan (or small crockpot) of vermiculite works great.Clean as necessary - Penny Brite or a brief pickle, maybe a little underwater grinding with an alundum stone.Keep all your leftover / spilled enamel powder. If the colors get mixed, save them in a separate bin for use as a counter (back side) enamel. Place a creased paper on your sifting worksurface, so you can easily dump excess enamel back in the container or a mixed jar.Enameling Safety:Eye protection and a fine-particulate mask are recommended when working with enamels.Wash hands thoroughly when done, and avoid rubbing your eyes.If working regularly with enamels, we suggest protective gloves to prevent irritation from small glass particles.When torch-firing:Prepare a fireproof work area, and remove clutter.A fire extinguisher nearby and good ventilation are important.Consider wearing an apron, closed-toe shoes and natural fiber clothing, and avoiding loose hair, flowy clothing and dangling jewelry.Keep food, drinks, pets and small children away from your enamel and/or firing workspace.Metal Compatibility & Color:Copper "paint chip" in image shows how this enamel looks on copper. Opaque colors are on their own. Translucent and opalescent colors have Foundation White on the bottom portion, and then a layer of translucent or opalescent color over the Foundation White and part-way up the bare copper. The color number was stamped on each strip of copper before enameling.The firing temperature range for our enamels is 1,400°-1,500°F (760°-815°C), and they have a coefficient of expansion (COE) from 258 to 360, cubic expansion. Metals that work with these enamels must have a higher melting point, and a similar COE. Otherwise your metal may melt before your enamel, or the enamel may pop off when your jewelry is exposed to temperature changes.Specifically, these enamels work with copper, gold, low-carbon steel and fine silver. This includes fired copper clay and fine-silver clay. (And some alloys of brass work -- we've had good luck with Vintaj brass blanks and our 24g brass blanks, especially with the higher COE colors, but color results have been unpredictable with brass -- they often require a 2nd layer and 2nd firing to get the color you were aiming for.)Specific COE for most colors is listed in the "Additional specs" field on this page. For more information about why COE is important for people who like to experiment with alternate metals, see the Thompson Enamel Workbook. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Enameling Tips:Enamel is durable, but not totally infallible. Handle finished pieces with care.Do all metal shaping, stamping, punching, etc. before adding enamels.Thoroughly clean your metal before enameling. Penny Brite works great!Before sifting enamel onto the piece, spray on a light coat of Klyr-Fire to help enamel stay in place with an even coating.To paint instead of sift, mix with Klyr Fire or approximately 40% water (to get desired consistency) and paint with a small sable paintbrush. You may want to fire a layer of Opaque White Undercoat first.Sift or paint enamel in desired pattern, carefully transfer to your firing station, and fire!If torch firing, watch closely: when the enamel begins to melt, you'll see a glossy "orange peel" stage where the enamel beads up before slumping to a smooth enameled sheen. Fire a bit more, but don't overheat - some colors will scorch.Allow to slowly cool. A warmed pan (or small crockpot) of vermiculite works great.Clean as necessary - Penny Brite or a brief pickle, maybe a little underwater grinding with an alundum stone.Keep all your leftover / spilled enamel powder. If the colors get mixed, save them in a separate bin for use as a counter (back side) enamel. Place a creased paper on your sifting worksurface, so you can easily dump excess enamel back in the container or a mixed jar.Enameling Safety:Eye protection and a fine-particulate mask are recommended when working with enamels.Wash hands thoroughly when done, and avoid rubbing your eyes.If working regularly with enamels, we suggest protective gloves to prevent irritation from small glass particles.When torch-firing:Prepare a fireproof work area, and remove clutter.A fire extinguisher nearby and good ventilation are important.Consider wearing an apron, closed-toe shoes and natural fiber clothing, and avoiding loose hair, flowy clothing and dangling jewelry.Keep food, drinks, pets and small children away from your enamel and/or firing workspace.Metal Compatibility & Color:Copper "paint chip" in image shows how this enamel looks on copper. Opaque colors are on their own. Translucent and opalescent colors have Foundation White on the bottom portion, and then a layer of translucent or opalescent color over the Foundation White and part-way up the bare copper. The color number was stamped on each strip of copper before enameling.The firing temperature range for our enamels is 1,400°-1,500°F (760°-815°C), and they have a coefficient of expansion (COE) from 258 to 360, cubic expansion. Metals that work with these enamels must have a higher melting point, and a similar COE. Otherwise your metal may melt before your enamel, or the enamel may pop off when your jewelry is exposed to temperature changes.Specifically, these enamels work with copper, gold, low-carbon steel and fine silver. This includes fired copper clay and fine-silver clay. (And some alloys of brass work -- we've had good luck with Vintaj brass blanks and our 24g brass blanks, especially with the higher COE colors, but color results have been unpredictable with brass -- they often require a 2nd layer and 2nd firing to get the color you were aiming for.)Specific COE for most colors is listed in the "Additional specs" field on this page. For more information about why COE is important for people who like to experiment with alternate metals, see the Thompson Enamel Workbook. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.

    Thompson Opaque 80-mesh Enamel for Metals - Pumpkin Orange, Sample (Each)

    Thompson
    $1.60
    Enameling Tips:Enamel is durable, but not totally infallible. Handle finished pieces with care.Do all metal shaping, stamping, punching, etc. before adding enamels.Thoroughly clean your metal before enameling. Penny Brite works great!Before sifting...
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  • Enameling Tips:Enamel is durable, but not totally infallible. Handle finished pieces with care.Do all metal shaping, stamping, punching, etc. before adding enamels.Thoroughly clean your metal before enameling. Penny Brite works great!Before sifting enamel onto the piece, spray on a light coat of Klyr-Fire to help enamel stay in place with an even coating.To paint instead of sift, mix with Klyr Fire or approximately 40% water (to get desired consistency) and paint with a small sable paintbrush. You may want to fire a layer of Opaque White Undercoat first.Sift or paint enamel in desired pattern, carefully transfer to your firing station, and fire!If torch firing, watch closely: when the enamel begins to melt, you'll see a glossy "orange peel" stage where the enamel beads up before slumping to a smooth enameled sheen. Fire a bit more, but don't overheat - some colors will scorch.Allow to slowly cool. A warmed pan (or small crockpot) of vermiculite works great.Clean as necessary - Penny Brite or a brief pickle, maybe a little underwater grinding with an alundum stone.Keep all your leftover / spilled enamel powder. If the colors get mixed, save them in a separate bin for use as a counter (back side) enamel. Place a creased paper on your sifting worksurface, so you can easily dump excess enamel back in the container or a mixed jar.Enameling Safety:Eye protection and a fine-particulate mask are recommended when working with enamels.Wash hands thoroughly when done, and avoid rubbing your eyes.If working regularly with enamels, we suggest protective gloves to prevent irritation from small glass particles.When torch-firing:Prepare a fireproof work area, and remove clutter.A fire extinguisher nearby and good ventilation are important.Consider wearing an apron, closed-toe shoes and natural fiber clothing, and avoiding loose hair, flowy clothing and dangling jewelry.Keep food, drinks, pets and small children away from your enamel and/or firing workspace.Metal Compatibility & Color:Copper "paint chip" in image shows how this enamel looks on copper. Opaque colors are on their own. Translucent and opalescent colors have Foundation White on the bottom portion, and then a layer of translucent or opalescent color over the Foundation White and part-way up the bare copper. The color number was stamped on each strip of copper before enameling.The firing temperature range for our enamels is 1,400°-1,500°F (760°-815°C), and they have a coefficient of expansion (COE) from 258 to 360, cubic expansion. Metals that work with these enamels must have a higher melting point, and a similar COE. Otherwise your metal may melt before your enamel, or the enamel may pop off when your jewelry is exposed to temperature changes.Specifically, these enamels work with copper, gold, low-carbon steel and fine silver. This includes fired copper clay and fine-silver clay. (And some alloys of brass work -- we've had good luck with Vintaj brass blanks and our 24g brass blanks, especially with the higher COE colors, but color results have been unpredictable with brass -- they often require a 2nd layer and 2nd firing to get the color you were aiming for.)Specific COE for most colors is listed in the "Additional specs" field on this page. For more information about why COE is important for people who like to experiment with alternate metals, see the Thompson Enamel Workbook. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Enameling Tips:Enamel is durable, but not totally infallible. Handle finished pieces with care.Do all metal shaping, stamping, punching, etc. before adding enamels.Thoroughly clean your metal before enameling. Penny Brite works great!Before sifting enamel onto the piece, spray on a light coat of Klyr-Fire to help enamel stay in place with an even coating.To paint instead of sift, mix with Klyr Fire or approximately 40% water (to get desired consistency) and paint with a small sable paintbrush. You may want to fire a layer of Opaque White Undercoat first.Sift or paint enamel in desired pattern, carefully transfer to your firing station, and fire!If torch firing, watch closely: when the enamel begins to melt, you'll see a glossy "orange peel" stage where the enamel beads up before slumping to a smooth enameled sheen. Fire a bit more, but don't overheat - some colors will scorch.Allow to slowly cool. A warmed pan (or small crockpot) of vermiculite works great.Clean as necessary - Penny Brite or a brief pickle, maybe a little underwater grinding with an alundum stone.Keep all your leftover / spilled enamel powder. If the colors get mixed, save them in a separate bin for use as a counter (back side) enamel. Place a creased paper on your sifting worksurface, so you can easily dump excess enamel back in the container or a mixed jar.Enameling Safety:Eye protection and a fine-particulate mask are recommended when working with enamels.Wash hands thoroughly when done, and avoid rubbing your eyes.If working regularly with enamels, we suggest protective gloves to prevent irritation from small glass particles.When torch-firing:Prepare a fireproof work area, and remove clutter.A fire extinguisher nearby and good ventilation are important.Consider wearing an apron, closed-toe shoes and natural fiber clothing, and avoiding loose hair, flowy clothing and dangling jewelry.Keep food, drinks, pets and small children away from your enamel and/or firing workspace.Metal Compatibility & Color:Copper "paint chip" in image shows how this enamel looks on copper. Opaque colors are on their own. Translucent and opalescent colors have Foundation White on the bottom portion, and then a layer of translucent or opalescent color over the Foundation White and part-way up the bare copper. The color number was stamped on each strip of copper before enameling.The firing temperature range for our enamels is 1,400°-1,500°F (760°-815°C), and they have a coefficient of expansion (COE) from 258 to 360, cubic expansion. Metals that work with these enamels must have a higher melting point, and a similar COE. Otherwise your metal may melt before your enamel, or the enamel may pop off when your jewelry is exposed to temperature changes.Specifically, these enamels work with copper, gold, low-carbon steel and fine silver. This includes fired copper clay and fine-silver clay. (And some alloys of brass work -- we've had good luck with Vintaj brass blanks and our 24g brass blanks, especially with the higher COE colors, but color results have been unpredictable with brass -- they often require a 2nd layer and 2nd firing to get the color you were aiming for.)Specific COE for most colors is listed in the "Additional specs" field on this page. For more information about why COE is important for people who like to experiment with alternate metals, see the Thompson Enamel Workbook. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.

    Thompson Translucent 80-mesh Enamel for Metals - Aqua Blue, Sample (Each)

    Thompson
    $1.60
    Enameling Tips:Enamel is durable, but not totally infallible. Handle finished pieces with care.Do all metal shaping, stamping, punching, etc. before adding enamels.Thoroughly clean your metal before enameling. Penny Brite works great!Before sifting...
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  • Enameling Tips:Enamel is durable, but not totally infallible. Handle finished pieces with care.Do all metal shaping, stamping, punching, etc. before adding enamels.Thoroughly clean your metal before enameling. Penny Brite works great!Before sifting enamel onto the piece, spray on a light coat of Klyr-Fire to help enamel stay in place with an even coating.To paint instead of sift, mix with Klyr Fire or approximately 40% water (to get desired consistency) and paint with a small sable paintbrush. You may want to fire a layer of Opaque White Undercoat first.Sift or paint enamel in desired pattern, carefully transfer to your firing station, and fire!If torch firing, watch closely: when the enamel begins to melt, you'll see a glossy "orange peel" stage where the enamel beads up before slumping to a smooth enameled sheen. Fire a bit more, but don't overheat - some colors will scorch.Allow to slowly cool. A warmed pan (or small crockpot) of vermiculite works great.Clean as necessary - Penny Brite or a brief pickle, maybe a little underwater grinding with an alundum stone.Keep all your leftover / spilled enamel powder. If the colors get mixed, save them in a separate bin for use as a counter (back side) enamel. Place a creased paper on your sifting worksurface, so you can easily dump excess enamel back in the container or a mixed jar.Enameling Safety:Eye protection and a fine-particulate mask are recommended when working with enamels.Wash hands thoroughly when done, and avoid rubbing your eyes.If working regularly with enamels, we suggest protective gloves to prevent irritation from small glass particles.When torch-firing:Prepare a fireproof work area, and remove clutter.A fire extinguisher nearby and good ventilation are important.Consider wearing an apron, closed-toe shoes and natural fiber clothing, and avoiding loose hair, flowy clothing and dangling jewelry.Keep food, drinks, pets and small children away from your enamel and/or firing workspace.Metal Compatibility & Color:Copper "paint chip" in image shows how this enamel looks on copper. Opaque colors are on their own. Translucent and opalescent colors have Foundation White on the bottom portion, and then a layer of translucent or opalescent color over the Foundation White and part-way up the bare copper. The color number was stamped on each strip of copper before enameling.The firing temperature range for our enamels is 1,400°-1,500°F (760°-815°C), and they have a coefficient of expansion (COE) from 258 to 360, cubic expansion. Metals that work with these enamels must have a higher melting point, and a similar COE. Otherwise your metal may melt before your enamel, or the enamel may pop off when your jewelry is exposed to temperature changes.Specifically, these enamels work with copper, gold, low-carbon steel and fine silver. This includes fired copper clay and fine-silver clay. (And some alloys of brass work -- we've had good luck with Vintaj brass blanks and our 24g brass blanks, especially with the higher COE colors, but color results have been unpredictable with brass -- they often require a 2nd layer and 2nd firing to get the color you were aiming for.)Specific COE for most colors is listed in the "Additional specs" field on this page. For more information about why COE is important for people who like to experiment with alternate metals, see the Thompson Enamel Workbook. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Enameling Tips:Enamel is durable, but not totally infallible. Handle finished pieces with care.Do all metal shaping, stamping, punching, etc. before adding enamels.Thoroughly clean your metal before enameling. Penny Brite works great!Before sifting enamel onto the piece, spray on a light coat of Klyr-Fire to help enamel stay in place with an even coating.To paint instead of sift, mix with Klyr Fire or approximately 40% water (to get desired consistency) and paint with a small sable paintbrush. You may want to fire a layer of Opaque White Undercoat first.Sift or paint enamel in desired pattern, carefully transfer to your firing station, and fire!If torch firing, watch closely: when the enamel begins to melt, you'll see a glossy "orange peel" stage where the enamel beads up before slumping to a smooth enameled sheen. Fire a bit more, but don't overheat - some colors will scorch.Allow to slowly cool. A warmed pan (or small crockpot) of vermiculite works great.Clean as necessary - Penny Brite or a brief pickle, maybe a little underwater grinding with an alundum stone.Keep all your leftover / spilled enamel powder. If the colors get mixed, save them in a separate bin for use as a counter (back side) enamel. Place a creased paper on your sifting worksurface, so you can easily dump excess enamel back in the container or a mixed jar.Enameling Safety:Eye protection and a fine-particulate mask are recommended when working with enamels.Wash hands thoroughly when done, and avoid rubbing your eyes.If working regularly with enamels, we suggest protective gloves to prevent irritation from small glass particles.When torch-firing:Prepare a fireproof work area, and remove clutter.A fire extinguisher nearby and good ventilation are important.Consider wearing an apron, closed-toe shoes and natural fiber clothing, and avoiding loose hair, flowy clothing and dangling jewelry.Keep food, drinks, pets and small children away from your enamel and/or firing workspace.Metal Compatibility & Color:Copper "paint chip" in image shows how this enamel looks on copper. Opaque colors are on their own. Translucent and opalescent colors have Foundation White on the bottom portion, and then a layer of translucent or opalescent color over the Foundation White and part-way up the bare copper. The color number was stamped on each strip of copper before enameling.The firing temperature range for our enamels is 1,400°-1,500°F (760°-815°C), and they have a coefficient of expansion (COE) from 258 to 360, cubic expansion. Metals that work with these enamels must have a higher melting point, and a similar COE. Otherwise your metal may melt before your enamel, or the enamel may pop off when your jewelry is exposed to temperature changes.Specifically, these enamels work with copper, gold, low-carbon steel and fine silver. This includes fired copper clay and fine-silver clay. (And some alloys of brass work -- we've had good luck with Vintaj brass blanks and our 24g brass blanks, especially with the higher COE colors, but color results have been unpredictable with brass -- they often require a 2nd layer and 2nd firing to get the color you were aiming for.)Specific COE for most colors is listed in the "Additional specs" field on this page. For more information about why COE is important for people who like to experiment with alternate metals, see the Thompson Enamel Workbook. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.

    Thompson Translucent 80-mesh Enamel for Metals - Peppermint Green, Sample (Each)

    Thompson
    $1.60
    Enameling Tips:Enamel is durable, but not totally infallible. Handle finished pieces with care.Do all metal shaping, stamping, punching, etc. before adding enamels.Thoroughly clean your metal before enameling. Penny Brite works great!Before sifting...
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  • See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.Questions? E-mail us for friendly, expert help!

    AccuLoop Round Nose Pliers (Each)

    EURO TOOL
    $16.95
    See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.Questions? E-mail us for friendly, expert help!
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  • Gain access to thousands of free jewelry making tutorials and classes from Wubbers University with the purchase of a single pair of Wubbers pliers. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.

    Baby Wubbers Round-Nose Jewelry Making Pliers (Each)

    Wubbers
    $20.75
    Gain access to thousands of free jewelry making tutorials and classes from Wubbers University with the purchase of a single pair of Wubbers pliers. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are...
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  • See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Questions? E-mail us for friendly, expert help!

    Choice Soft Solder, Tin-Based Lead-Free (spool)

    $26.05
    See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Questions? E-mail us for friendly, expert help!
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  • The opening on the long reach riveting tool is 0.20" (5mm) taller than the standard riveting tool to accommodate taller / thicker pieces. Punch components used with the standard size tool and long reach tool are NOT interchangeable, with one exception: You can use long reach accessories in the standard size body. (Standard size accessories are too short to fit in the Long Reach body.) Confused about rivets or riveting tools? See Riveting 101, or our blog articles:Best Riveting Tool Set andWhat's the Difference Between Semi-Tubular Rivets and Wire Rivets?This video by Crafted Findings demonstrates how to use their riveting tool for piercing metal and for setting eyelets and rivets. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.Questions? E-mail us for friendly, expert help!

    Crafted Findings 1/16" Long Reach Piercing and Rivet Setting Tool Kit (set)

    Crafted Findings

    $75.74
    The opening on the long reach riveting tool is 0.20" (5mm) taller than the standard riveting tool to accommodate taller / thicker pieces. Punch components used with the standard size tool and long reach tool are NOT interchangeable, with one exception:...
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  • See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Questions? E-mail us for friendly, expert help!

    Dumbell Ring Tag, Rectangle (thousand)

    $22.35
    See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Questions? E-mail us for friendly, expert help!
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  • See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Questions? E-mail us for friendly, expert help!

    EURO TOOL EuroPunch Jewelry Pliers, Round, 1.25mm, 18g, Hole (Each)

    EURO TOOL

    $11.65
    See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Questions? E-mail us for friendly, expert help!
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  • See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Questions? E-mail us for friendly, expert help!

    EURO TOOL Fiber-Grip Tweezer, 8" (Each)

    EURO TOOL
    $2.76
    See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Questions? E-mail us for friendly, expert help!
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    EURO TOOL Hammer, Brass, 1lb (Each)

    EURO TOOL
    $22.95
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  • For stamps that aren't pre-labeled (or the label wears off with use), place a dot with Wite-Out® or colorful fingernail polish to indicate the bottom of each letter (or symbol) to help keep your letters directionally correct when stamping. For the stamps that are pre-marked with the letter or symbol, marking should generally face toward the user when stamping. If you have a set that's different, you may want to put a dot facing you, to keep all your stamps consistent. For more information on metal stamping take a look at our Metal Stamping 101 page or our free downloadable metal stamping PDF. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.

    ImpressArt Metal Stamp, Paw Print (Each)

    ImpressArt
    $6.40
    For stamps that aren't pre-labeled (or the label wears off with use), place a dot with Wite-Out® or colorful fingernail polish to indicate the bottom of each letter (or symbol) to help keep your letters directionally correct when stamping. For the...
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  • We recommend striking metal stamps with a brass hammer.For more information on metal stamping, take a look at our Metal Stamping 101 page.See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.

    ImpressArt Simple Strike Jig for 6mm stamps (Each)

    ImpressArt
    $9.00
    We recommend striking metal stamps with a brass hammer.For more information on metal stamping, take a look at our Metal Stamping 101 page.See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with...
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  • This black non-toxic, waterbased acrylic ink is a great stamping enamel. It's water resistant when dry, but may be affected by some chemicals and soaps.See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.Questions? E-mail us for friendly, expert help! This black non-toxic, waterbased acrylic ink is a great stamping enamel. It's water resistant when dry, but may be affected by some chemicals and soaps.See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.Questions? E-mail us for friendly, expert help!

    ImpressArt Stamp Enamel Marker - Black (Each)

    ImpressArt
    $8.97
    This black non-toxic, waterbased acrylic ink is a great stamping enamel. It's water resistant when dry, but may be affected by some chemicals and soaps.See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are...
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  • Polymer Clay Basics Polymer clays are man made modeling materials that, once heat cured, become permanent and will not return to their original state. All are composed of the same basic components: plasticizers, resins, fillers and colorants. Before using polymer clay it must be conditioned... kneading by hand until the clay is soft and pliable or fold and roll through a pasta machine. Inadequate conditioning will result in weakened finished items and weakened piece to piece adhesion. Condition light colors first, then move to darker colors. Polymer clay pieces can be cured in a standard oven (convection) or toaster oven. Do not microwave polymer clay. If you don't have a dedicated oven, place items in an aluminum pan, then cover tightly with foil to prevent residue build up in your oven. Cure pieces in a well-ventilated area. Check oven accuracy with a thermometer and use a timer to avoid exceeding curing time. The recommended curing temperature is 300° F (150° C). Kato Polyclay™ can be cured at 275° F (135° C) with good results and has been approved to cure at 350° F by our toxicologist, however caution should be taken when curing at that temperature, time should be limited to 10 minutes as you will run the risk of discoloration. You should never exceed 365° F. Materials that will withstand clay curing temperatures, such as glass, paper mache, wood, metal and ceramic items may be covered with clay and baked in the oven. Items may be nested in polyester batting to avoid flat, shiny spots. Finished pieces may be painted or glazed after curing. Water-based paints and glazes are recommended. Cured clay may also be wet sanded (automotive sandpaper - 400 and 600 grit, in water) and then buffed to a high-gloss sheen. Working Properties of Kato PolyClay™ 1. Conditioning - Kato Polyclay™ is easy to condition, with no crumbling. I slice the blocks into 1/8" thick pieces. Roll through the pasta machine at the thickest setting. Finish by folding and rolling. 2. Handling - with continuous kneading and working, Kato Polyclay™ does not become sticky and, therefore, maintains its ease of workability. 3. Strength - Kato Polyclay™ was deemed as strong or stronger than other clays the testers used, - most feeling it was stronger. Not one single respondent found it to be less strong. Additionally, every color shares the same strength. 4. Color stability - From uncured to cured state, no Kato Polyclay™ color shifts more than 1/2 shade, with the majority remaining unchanged from uncured to cured state. It is virtually "true- color". 5. Consistency - Colors share the same consistency and softness. For example, you won't find white very hard and green very soft. Even consistency promotes even cane reduction, which results in less distorted imagery and less waste at cane ends. 6. Color Mixing - Rather than taking an academic approach (this requires that the user have a rather extensive knowledge of color mixing) we have opted for a more user friendly and intuitive method. The Spectral Colors form the basis for the creation of all colors. If they were placed on the color wheel, you would find them very evenly spaced. This approach makes color mixing simple for even the most inexperienced user. 7. Colors - Colors have been formulated for maximum purity and brilliance. 8. Finish - Once cured, Kato Polyclay™ exhibits a satin sheen. 9. Density - As part of the manufacturing process, Kato Polyclay™ is vacuum extruded (we are the only company utilizing this state of the art process). In essence, air from the clay is removed, making the clay denser and eliminating the need for continuous folding and rolling to remove air pockets from the clay. 10. Warm repositioning - Kato Polyclay™ is not as fragile as other brands when warm. Kato Polyclay™ allows for a measure of repositioning of elements when warm - the clay maintains its new position without breaking. See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item.

    Kato Polyclay, 2oz - Brown (Each)

    $1.98
    Polymer Clay Basics Polymer clays are man made modeling materials that, once heat cured, become permanent and will not return to their original state. All are composed of the same basic components: plasticizers, resins, fillers and colorants. ...
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  • See Related Products links (below) for similar items and additional jewelry-making supplies that are often used with this item. Questions? E-mail us for friendly, expert help!

    Organza Drawstring Bag, 2x2.5" - White (10 Pieces)

    $1.84
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    Rubber Bench Block, 4x4x1" (Each)

    $5.32
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    Sunshine Polishing Cloth (Each)

    $4.20
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